Easy Moss Stitch Crochet Blanket

A calm, cosy blanket project with simple stitches and a beautifully even texture.

If you’re looking for a blanket that feels steady and relaxing to crochet, this moss stitch blanket is a lovely option.

It’s one of those projects that settles into a gentle rhythm quite quickly. Once you’ve worked a few rows, the pattern becomes very intuitive, and it’s easy to pick up for a few rows at a time or to sit with for a longer, more restful crochet session.

I’ve made this blanket using aran weight yarn for a soft, warm finish with a nice bit of weight to it. The moss stitch gives a slightly woven texture, which I’ve always found works particularly well for blankets as it creates a fabric that feels both cosy and balanced, without becoming too dense.

In this post, you’ll find the full written pattern, along with practical notes, yarn details, and a complete video tutorial to guide you through.

If you’re looking for more beginner-friendly options to consider alongside this one, I’ve also put together a guide to 7 beginner crochet blanket patterns worth making.

Why moss stitch works so well for blankets

Moss stitch is one of those stitches that tends to look more complex than it really is.

In practice, you’re simply alternating single crochet stitches and chains, working into the spaces from the previous row. That creates a fabric with a soft, even texture and a gentle drape.

From experience, I’ve found that moss stitch blankets have a few particularly helpful qualities:

• The edges stay relatively straight without much adjustment
• The fabric doesn’t feel too stiff or too open
• It works well with both solid colours and simple striping

It’s also quite forgiving in terms of tension, which can be reassuring if you’re still building confidence.

Video tutorial

If you’d prefer to follow along visually, I’ve created a full step-by-step video tutorial for this blanket.

You can watch it here:

Easy Moss Stitch Blanket Video Tutorial

PDF pattern option

If you’d like a printable, ad-free version of the pattern, there is also a PDF available for a small charge.

Purchasing the PDF is a simple way to support my work and helps me continue creating patterns and tutorials like this.

PDF version of the Easy Moss Stitch Blanket Pattern

Yarn

For my blanket, I used Stylecraft Special Aran , which is a 100% acrylic yarn.

Each 100g ball contains approximately 196 metres (214 yards).

I chose this yarn because it’s:

• Soft and comfortable for everyday use
• Easy to care for
• Widely available in a good range of colours

Colours and amounts used:

• MC (Main Colour): Parchment – 9 balls
• CC1 (Stripes): Dark Brown – 3 balls
• CC2 (Border): Khaki – 1 ball

You could substitute this with any aran (worsted) weight yarn. Wool, acrylic, or blends all work well here. If you choose a different yarn weight, you may need to adjust your hook size and yarn quantities.

If you’re not sure which yarn weight to choose, I’ve written a guide to choosing the right yarn weight for a crochet blanket which covers the main options and what each produces.

If you’re unsure about yarn amounts for different blanket sizes, you might find this guide helpful:

How much yarn is needed to crochet a blanket

Hook

5 mm hook, or the size that gives you a fabric you’re happy with.

With moss stitch in particular, I sometimes go down half a hook size if I want a slightly neater, more compact finish.

Gauge

14 stitches and 11 rows over 10 cm in moss stitch.

Gauge isn’t critical for this blanket, but it will affect the final size and the amount of yarn you use.

Size

The blanket measures 120 cm x 192 cm (41 inches x 76 inches), perfect for snuggling under on the sofa.

Instructions for adjusting the size, if desired, are provided below.

Before you start – a few helpful notes

Starting and ending rows

From Row 2 onwards, each row begins with a chain 1, which does not count as a stitch.

I’ve used single crochet stitches at the start and end of each row to create a slightly firmer edge. This makes it easier to add the border neatly later on.

Foundation row options

I’ve used foundation single crochet (fsc) for the first row, as it gives a neat, flexible edge.

However, if you prefer, you can absolutely use a starting chain instead. Both options are included in the pattern.

Changing colour

There are two simple approaches you can use here:

• Change colour on the final pull-through of the last stitch (my usual preference for a smooth finish)
• Fasten off and rejoin with a slip stitch

Both work well, and you can choose whichever feels more comfortable for you.

Managing yarn ends

For this blanket, I’d suggest leaving your ends until after you’ve added the border.

That gives you a bit more flexibility to weave them into the border, where they’re often easier to hide.

Adjusting the size

The blanket is worked with an odd number of stitches per row.

• To adjust the width: start with a different odd number
• To adjust the length: simply work more or fewer rows

If you’d like more guidance on sizing, you can refer to this post:
Standard crochet blanket sizes

Crochet Terms

The pattern below is written in US terms (the PDF version is available in both UK and US crochet terms).

If you prefer UK terms:

US sc (single crochet) = UK dc (double crochet)

Abbreviation	Meaning
BLO	back loop only
ch	chain
ch-sp	chain space
fsc	foundation single crochet (explained below)
rep	repeat
rsc	reverse single crochet / crab stitch (explained below)
sc	single crochet
sk	skip
sl st	slip stitch
st	stitches
yoh	yarn over hook

Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

The first row of the blanket is made with foundation single crochet (fsc). This gives a neat start and many crocheters find this easier than crocheting into a starting chain. However, you can of course use a starting chain if you prefer (details in pattern below).

The foundation single crochet stitch is made as follows:

2 ch (does not count as st), insert hook into second ch from hook, *yoh, pull up loop, yoh, draw through 1 loop on hook (ch made), yoh, draw through 2 loops on hook (fsc made)**, insert hook in last ch made;

rep from * until you have the number of fsc required, ending last rep at **.

A video tutorial demonstrating this stitch is available here.

Reverse Single Crochet (rsc) – AKA Crab Stitch

Reverse single crochet (rsc) stitches are used to form the final round of the border. They provide a neat, slightly thicker, and twisted finish to your blanket. However, if you prefer not to use this stitch, you could replace it with standard single crochet (sc).

Reverse single crochet (rsc) stitches are made in the opposite direction to normal single crochet (sc) stitches. In other words, if you are right-handed, you will work from left to right, and if you are left-handed, you will work from right to left.

To form a reverse single crochet (rsc) stitch, follow these steps:

1. Insert hook into previous stitch (i.e. the last stitch of the previous round), yoh and pull through st (2 loops on hook).
2. Yoh and pull through both loops on hook (1 loop on hook).

Continue in this way working in the opposite direction to usual back around the round you have just made.

A video tutorial demonstrating this stitch is available here.

Method

Main Blanket

Row 1 – With MC, 179 fsc, turn. [179 fsc]

Alternative Row 1 – With MC, 180 ch, sc into second ch from hook, sc to end, turn. [179 sc]

Row 2 – 1 ch (does not count as st here and throughout); *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 1 sc; rep from * to last st; 1 sc, turn. [90 sc, 89 ch]

Row 3 – 1 ch, 1 sc, *1 sc into ch-sp, 1 ch, sk 1 sc; rep from * to last 2 sts; 1 sc into ch-sp, 1 sc, turn. [91 sc, 88 ch]

Row 4 – 1 ch, 1 sc; *1 ch, sk 1 sc, 1 sc into ch-sp; rep from * to last 2 sts; 1 ch, sk 1 sc, 1 sc, turn. [90 sc, 89 ch]

Row 5 – Rep Row 3. Cut MC leaving an end to weave in.

Row 6 – With CC1, rep Row 4. Cut CC1 leaving an end to weave in.

Rows 7-10 – With MC, rep Rows 3-4 twice. Then, cut MC.

Row 11 – With CC1, rep Row 3. Cut CC1.

Rows 12-15 – With MC, rep Rows 4 and then 3, twice. Then, cut MC.

Rows 16-225 – Rep Rows 6-15 21 times.

Row 226 – Rep Row 6.

Rows 227-230 – With MC, rep Rows 3-4 twice.

Row 231 – 1 ch, 1 sc in each sc and ch-sp to end. Do not fasten off but continue with MC on your hook to create the border.

Border

Round 1 – Continuing with MC, 1 ch (does not count as st), continue around the blanket making:

• 1 sc in side of each sc along the long sides of the blanket;
• 1 sc in the bottom of each fsc (or sc) along the bottom of the blanket;
• 1 sc in the top of each sc along the top of the blanket; and
• (1sc, 1 ch, 1 sc) at each corner.

At the end of this round, sl st into the initial sc to join. Then, turn your work over.

Round 2 – Continuing with MC, 1 ch, continue around the blanket making:

• 1 sc in each sc from Round 1;
• (1sc, 1 ch, 1 sc) in each corner ch-sp.

At the end of this round, sl st into the initial sc to join and fasten off. Then, turn your work over again.

Round 3 – Join CC2 to any corner ch-sp, 1 ch, continue around the blanket making:

• 1 scBLO in each sc from Round 2;
• (1sc, 1 ch, 1 sc) in each corner ch-sp.

At the end of this round, sl st into the initial scBLO to join. Do not turn your work over.

Round 4 – Continuing with CC2, 1 ch, continue around the blanket making 1 rsc in each sc, scBLO and ch-sp from Round 3.

At the end of this round, sl st into the initial rsc to join. Fasten off.

Alternatively, just work regular sc as opposed to rsc.

Variations

You may wish to consider adjusting the usage of different colored yarns in your blanket. Some ideas you could try might include:

• Adjusting the spacing between stripes by crocheting more/fewer rows with the MC yarn before crocheting a row with CC1.
• Crocheting two rows in CC1 each time it is used, instead of just one, to produce a bolder or heavier stripe.
• Using more colors for the stripes instead of just the same color each time. This could be a great way to use up small scraps of leftover yarn from other projects.

Blocking and Finishing

Once you’ve finished your blanket and weaved in your ends, you may find that a light block helps even out the stitches and smooth the edges.

For acrylic yarn, a gentle steam block can work well, while natural fibres can be wet blocked.

If you’d like a step-by-step guide, I’ve written more about this here:
What is wet blocking in crochet

A few final thoughts

This is one of those blankets that I tend to come back to when I want something calm and dependable to work on. It’s simple enough to feel relaxing, but still creates a finished piece that looks thoughtful and well put together. If you do decide to make one, I hope you enjoy the process just as much as the finished blanket.

And if you enjoy this kind of make, I’ve also put together a post on relaxing crochet stitches for blankets which covers some of my other favourites in a similar vein.

More crochet support – and two free patterns

If you’d like a bit more guidance and gentle encouragement with your crochet, you’re very welcome to join my email list.

When you join, I’ll send you two exclusive patterns as a welcome gift. I also share:

• New tutorials and patterns
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About the author

Catherine is a crochet designer based in Surrey, UK, specialising in blankets and colourwork, particularly tapestry crochet.

She has designed patterns for yarn companies and magazines, and her work is known for its calm, structured approach that helps crocheters build confidence while creating something thoughtful and practical.

Her patterns and tutorials are designed to be clear, steady, and accessible, whether you’re making your first blanket or developing more advanced techniques.

You can explore more of her work here:

• Crochet Blanket Resource Hub
• Tapestry Crochet Hub